Tea tales from Trabzon

Arriving in Trabzon one is struck by how little People there care about Istanbul. A city with its own identity on the Black Sea coast, built on some of the most improbable hills, roads and houses built on inclines you wouldn t think it possible. 

The main sea port for Turkey on the Black Sea which makes for a not so appealing busy commercial harbour. 

I picked the cheapest hotel I could find. up a a windy cobbled street just above the harbour. Also a stones throw from tree lined Ataturk Alani Square, a place bustling with locals day and night chatting and drinking their ever present Turkish tea. 

Whilst its cobbled windy side streets give it some character, it is still a big city so I didn t plan to stay long. I was itching to get into the countryside. but first tales from a Turkish tea house. 

It was the evenin of the Galatasaray v Trabzon game so I hunted out a suitable local tea house to watch the game. I hit the jackpot and found a side street lines with tea houses, all the local men sat outside sipping tea waiting in anticipation. 

As kick off neared the alleyway became packed with locals and the atmosphere and hatred of Galatasaray was apparent :D since arriving in turkey I have become addicted to Turkish tea, and so I sat there sipping in bemusement not knowing what was being shouted at the screen but understanding the general meaning through the tone.

Trabzon scored and the place erupted, street fireworks went off to my left, flares also and I found myself grabbed by the group next to me jumping around and cheering as though I was a lifelong Trabzon fan! 

After the game I stayed to soak in the atmosphere. It made a nice change from the beer, pub and football combination we are used to in the UK. 

Whilst sipping my tea I found myself the point of interest to the group of young Turkish men who had grabbed me during the goal celebrations.  One could speak a little English and we ended up having a good natured two way conversation between him and his friends forthe next   couple of hours. Topics that ranged from, why I was not an Arab/Muslim, they all assumed I was :) , Israel (a genuine hatred due to the marmara incident) football, religion, whether or not I liked their president (they did) and what the hell I was doing in Turkey at this time of year :) 

At one point it turned to a three way conversation as the chap translating could not understand so phoned a friend, I then relayed my point over the phone, and it was translated back to the group :)

Great amusement was had in teaching me Turkish phrases, they wanted to test my accent. Unfortunately I did not have my phone or a own and paper with me so couldn't write them down. 

One I do remember went something like "bize hireh trabzon" as we all chanted it together (phonetically remembered that is) 

For my efforts I was rewarded with a good hearty clap and chuckle all round. And of course more Tea and Turkish cake. One called Dankek, a wonderful invention with 8 different kinds of cake in one bite size slice :) 

It turned out the main translator was the son of the owner of the tea house, so by the end of the evening I had tried the whole array of their fine flavoured teas and Turkish cakes, accompanied by the local bread, sinat (forgive my spelling) a doughnut shaped bread sprinkled in sesame seeds. 

After putting the world to rights with a good couple of hours of friendly broken English banter, I was struck again at how friendly and willing to chat to a stranger, such as myself the locals were, I got up to pay. The owner and his son would have none of it, and said "no no I don't want your money, we enjoyed having you as a visitor!" 

I tried again and with that he told me jokingly in no uncertain terms to, i won t repeat the exact phrase "get lost with your money, I said no :D" 

And with a smile and a handshake I left, another eventful and hospitable evening in a Turkish city. A city I happily failed to spot another tourist in throughout my stay :) 

It was, however, time to venture into the Countryside, and so the real travelling begins, where I ll be wishing you a happy Christmas from somewhere in the kackar mountains :)